hello, from a Volvo owner

[p fandango]

Hi All,

i've only just joined the forum so please be gentle. Basically i've got a modified Volvo T-5 that i use for 1/4mile drag racing & looking at getting Racelogic traction control for it. I know its impossible to give accurate numbers, but what sort of time savings have people got from a FWD on the strip from using Racelogic

http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy196/pedro-fandango/Volvo/mine/BT/Latest/DSCF0002-3.jpg

http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy196/pedro-fandango/Volvo/mine/BT/Latest/DSCF0004-1.jpg

many thanks Duane

[Jonnie]

Hi Duane,

Welcome to the forum! :D
I'm familiar with the T5. A good friend of mine owns the 855 T5 Estate; Brilliant car, nothing comes close to that lovely 5 pot burble :p I see your car's been on a very strict diet :thumbsup: Have you done anything to the engine?

Can I see an OMEX module hanging down in the second image? ;)

What kind of 1/4 mile times are you currently running?

With regards to your question, reviews can be found here (http://www.racelogic.co.uk/index.php/en/other-products/traction-control?start=1) on our website, along with other useful information. It may be worth checking the Volvo forums for reviews. I know a few people have it fitted to their cars on there.
Coupled with the full throttle shift upgrade, RLTC could save you time on the 1/4 but I can't really give you an exact figure.

I posted a few videos of the Racelogic Traction Control system in action, which can be found in this thread. (http://www.racelogic.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?p=4443#post4443) There's a good comparison of a Viper launching with the TC on and off. It really proves how effective the system is once it’s turned on!

If you have any questions about the traction system, please let us know. You can always send an email to support@racelogic.co.uk :thumbsup:

Regards,
Jonnie.

[p fandango]

Hi Jonnie,

thank you for the welcome sir, i did have a quick look thru the reviews but didn't notice any FWD cars. I've removed around 322kg from the car & done quite a bit to the engine (i'll list mods below). My current best is 14.557@99.1mph, that was with the smaller 15g turbo & full interior (only real mods at the time were an MBC & decat)

i do remember a group buy on Racelogic traction control many many years ago but don't see it mentioned these days

well spotted on the Omex unit sir, that is a second rev-limiter which is operated off a clutch switch so acts the same as the launch & full throttle gear change you recommend (i've yet to try it in action)


http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy196/pedro-fandango/Volvo/mine/BT/Latest/DSCF0186.jpg

http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy196/pedro-fandango/Volvo/mine/BT/Latest/20082011077.jpg

http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy196/pedro-fandango/Volvo/mine/BT/Latest/26092011119.jpg

http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy196/pedro-fandango/Volvo/mine/several/DSCF0007.jpg
you might be able to guess i like Volvo's lol

Engine Spec:

S60R exhaust manifold
19T turbo
1.2bar actuator
Forge Motorsport recirc valve blanking plate
Ferrita 3inch Stainless steel downpipe
QTP exhaust cut-off valve
ME7 inlet manifold
lightened flywheel (on order)
polished & internally modified Volvo 960 throttle body
VXR 470cc fuel injectors
fuel swirl pot with 2 pump fuel system (to be fitted)
3inch alloy reverse flow intercooler pipes
3inch air intake pipe, including 3inch MAF sensor housing
Apexi AVC-R boost controller
power steering pump replaced with Citroen electric unit in boot
expansion bottle moved
radiator & fan moved to boot
vac hoses replaced with internally braided hoses
7mm double silicone HT leads
twin MSD coils, MSD 6a ignition unit
TWE oil catch tank, PCV removed
Powerflex top engine mount
Powerflex bulkhead mount (using ME7 bracket)
Powerflex wishbone bushes
Powerflex tie-bar bushes
front panel & scuttle panel removed (including any excess metal from scuttle panel)
Powerflow stainless steel exhaust back-box with twin exit (one each side)
battery moved to boot using Nolan engineering alloy battery tray
bonnet strengthening removed
all plastic removed (ECU box, wire trunking etc)
Carbon Fibre LHD strut brace
Volvo 302mm brake conversion
Black Diamond braided brake hoses
ABS & brake servo removed
rear brake bias lever
Volvo lowered chassis option, also rear shocks can be locked
full UR racing chassis brace kit
under bonnet sound insulation removed
front wheel hubs fitted with wheel studs (to be fitted)
DRE sequential shift light
launch control & full throttle gear-change
WOT overboost (adjustable for duration, boost & duty)
short shift gearchange plate
brass shifter cable bushes
EVAP system & carbon canistor removed
bonnet hinges, springs, catches, cable & lever removed
screen wash bottle moved to boot, jet moved onto wiper arm
excess wiring removed from loom (including repeator lights, aircon, cruise control, headlight wipers etc)

Interior:

Dino leather 3 spoke steering wheel (with Momo boss)
custom carbon fibre steering wheel centre
quick release steering boss
all switches moved to box unit by handbrake
gear level shortened by 1.5inches
Race-X gearknob
Race-X Alloy pedal grips
Cobra Monaco S bucket seats (passenger side monted as far back as possible)
Raceland clip-in 3 point harnesses
non-turbo gauges (including higher range rev-counter)
digital thermometers (measuring intake & throttle body temperatures)
internal door metalwork removed
alloy door cards & rear bulkhead
USB webcam
everything else removed, including carpets, dashboard, sunroof, door trim, excess wiring etc

Exterior:

T-5R front bumper with chrome mesh grill & intercooler vents
private registration plate reading “BIG T5R” or “BIG TOSSER”
headlamp wipers removed & under headlight panels replaced
RGM headlight eyebrows, or motorsport fibre glass light blanks
fibre glass headlamp blanks used off road
day running lights disconnected
front fog lights removed
LED sidelight bulbs
single windscreen wiper conversion
quick release bonnet pins & hinges removed
quick release bumpers & doors
TopCat front bumper splitter
S70 fuel filler door
custom TWR pinstripe decal & window graphics
1995 spec rear lights & inner boot panel
passenger side front door handle de-locked
S70 T-5 16" white Perfo wheels, with 225/50/16 tyres
rear bumper modified for extra tailpipe
SAAB 900 rear spoiler
NACA 3" duct on passenger wing feeding air direct to turbo
Perspex windows (except windscreen)
wheel arch linings removed
USA spec front wing badges, replacing repeator lights
Nordic design mesh bonnet grill
GP2 wing mirror (drivers side only)
Boot badges, hinges & shocks removed. Boot lid now secured with catches


many thanks Duane

[Steve Taylor]

Hi Duane,

What benefit you'd see from traction control really depends on how the car is set-up. If your struggling getting grip off the line then the traction control will manage the power and reduce it to the point where you regain grip. It will then manage the power and feed it back in to ensure you are putting as much as the tyres can take onto the track.

The key thing to remember here though, is that the traction control is reducing the power output of the engine. So it is making up for a deficiency in power-train, suspension set-up, and tyres on the car. You most likely still see gains from this, but the ultimate goal should be to ensure that the full power output can be put down on the track.

Where the system might be of most benefit is with the 'Full Throttle Shift' and 'Launch Control' functions. These will be of particular help with a turbo car allowing you to keep the turbo spooled up during launch and shifts. This may give you an advantage if you find it tricky balancing the throttle during launch and gear changes.

Out of interest, what tyres are you using?

[p fandango]

Hi Steve

thank you for the reply sir. TBH i haven't had the car on the strip for over 4years now, & its been off the road for 2 of them while i strip her out & done alot more of the mods. I'm currently running standard suspension with an open diff which as you can guess really isn't ideal on a FWD car. I've already got a home-made launch control & full throttle gearchange which i'm hoping will work alongside the basic traction system, obviously mine just holds the revs at the start then lets them go while your's will lower the RPM once it detects wheelspin

i've got a pair of Yokohama Advan 240/610/17 slicks for the strip, although as i'm hoping the car will still remain road legal will be on normal road tyres as well

i think i might of seen you a few times at Avon, what times you running in that? (sorry for my ignorance & lack of knowledge on Americain cars, is it a Camaro)

many thanks Duane

[p fandango]

traction control ordered, i've just gone for the basic RLTC6A kit as i think it should work ok with my current launch & full throttle change systems (fingers crossed lol)

[Steve Taylor]

Hi Duane,

It looks like your using an Omex system for your launch and gear shift limiter. I believe this uses spark cuts to limit the engine, so this should not have any effect on the the traction system; so long as it picks up RPM from and ECU output not the coil.

The traction system uses injector misfires to limit the engine. We did supply spark cut systems in the past for use on carb engines, but this is a compromise as it allows unburned fuel to flow through the engine. It's much more friendly to take advantage of injection systems and stop any fuel going in at all. ;)

[Steve]

Nice project you got going there, Video VBOX next then ;)

[Turrican]

Wow, nice Car there. :thumbsup:

[p fandango]

Wow, nice Car there. :thumbsup:


Nice project you got going there, Video VBOX next then ;)
thanks both, i've had the car 12years now so the mods have just grown & grown with it lol

sorry for my stupidity, but whats the VBOX?

many thanks Duane

[p fandango]

Hi Duane,

It looks like your using an Omex system for your launch and gear shift limiter. I believe this uses spark cuts to limit the engine, so this should not have any effect on the the traction system; so long as it picks up RPM from and ECU output not the coil.

The traction system uses injector misfires to limit the engine. We did supply spark cut systems in the past for use on carb engines, but this is a compromise as it allows unburned fuel to flow through the engine. It's much more friendly to take advantage of injection systems and stop any fuel going in at all. ;)
Hi Steve, you are correct sir. The Omex is simply a rev-limiter wired to activate off the clutch pedal, & yes it cuts the spark. With the open exhaust the popping & farting from the launch does sound good lol ;)

[Jonnie]

sorry for my stupidity, but whats the VBOX?



The VBOX or Velocity box is our GPS based data logger. It's a very powerful instrument based on a new generation of high performance satellite receivers. Speed, acceleration, distance and position on the Earth are among the many different things it’s able to measure and calculate.

The "Video VBOX" which Steve mentioned is a GPS based data logging system with synchronised video, incorporating graphical elements such as gauges, bar graphs, track maps and text.
These graphical elements can be configured to display various GPS parameters such as velocity and G-force, as well as analogue inputs, vehicle CAN data, performance tests and lap timing information. The video VBOX is a great tool for driver training and analysis. Many people have greatly improved their driving and lap times just from using this system.

If you go onto YouTube and search “Video VBOX”, you will find hundreds of video clips, in many different genres of motorsport, from all over the world.

Here's a great example. This is footage from a recent Fun Cup event at Oulton park where our MD decided to perform a perfectly executed 360 on the exit of turn two using the old, 'two wheels on the grass' technique :D

0Q7ykpyeXw0&feature=channel_video_title

If you have any further questions, feel free to ask! you can always give us a call or email support@racelogic.co.uk :thumbsup:

Regards,
Jonnie

[p fandango]

wow nice one thanks Jonnie, a bit out of my price range tbh with my racing being just a hobby tho. Can't wait for my traction control to turn up now tho lol

[p fandango]

couple of questions for you people,

is there a way to quickly turn off the traction control without using the dial, i think the control unit is going to have to be out of hands reach. Can i put a switch in the power line to disengage the system for the burn-out, then simply switch it back on

i've removed the ABS from the car, all the speed sensors are still fitted which i intend to use only for the traction control (except one which will also do the speedo). Do both wires on the sensor get wired to the Racelogic, or does one wire need to go to a positive 12volt feed then the other side go to the traction control. Sorry for the silly question but i couldn't figure it out from the instruction pdf

many thanks Duane

[Sider]

Hi Duane, welcome to the forum :)



Here's a great example. This is footage from a recent Fun Cup event at Oulton park where our MD decided to perform a perfectly executed 360 on the exit of turn two using the old, 'two wheels on the grass' technique :D

Haha, nice spin, know the corner well :D

[Jonnie]

is there a way to quickly turn off the traction control without using the dial, i think the control unit is going to have to be out of hands reach. Can i put a switch in the power line to disengage the system for the burn-out, then simply switch it back on

i've removed the ABS from the car, all the speed sensors are still fitted which i intend to use only for the traction control (except one which will also do the speedo). Do both wires on the sensor get wired to the Racelogic, or does one wire need to go to a positive 12volt feed then the other side go to the traction control. Sorry for the silly question but i couldn't figure it out from the instruction pdf


Hi Duane,


You should be able to use the standard OEM ABS sensors without having to power them. Just make sure that you ground them all to a common point on the chassis and that your earthing is as good as possible.

With regards to turning system off, what if you mounted the adjuster on that grey box, underneath the handbrake? Would you still be able to reach it in that location while strapped in to the seat? This way you wouldn't have to modify the TC wiring. :thumbsup:

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/3630/61998586.png (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/337/61998586.png/)

Regards,
Jonnie.

[p fandango]

Hi Duane,


You should be able to use the standard OEM ABS sensors without having to power them. Just make sure that you ground them all to a common point on the chassis and that your earthing is as good as possible.

With regards to turning system off, what if you mounted the adjuster on that grey box, underneath the handbrake? Would you still be able to reach it in that location while strapped in to the seat? This way you wouldn't have to modify the TC wiring. :thumbsup:

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/3630/61998586.png (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/337/61998586.png/)

Regards,
Jonnie.
Hi Jonnie,

sorry for the delay getting back to you sir, just got back off holiday this afternoon. Had to chase round but the supplier has got my traction control so can't wait to go & pick it up monday.

i can reach the switch panel so will have to see if the controls can be mounted onto it anywhere

had a few other pressie's waiting for me when i got back today

http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy196/pedro-fandango/Volvo/mine/BT/Misc/04112011179.jpg

http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy196/pedro-fandango/Volvo/mine/BT/Misc/04112011180.jpg

[Sider]

Looks like the mice have been at the flywheel! :D

[p fandango]

Looks like the mice have been at the flywheel! :D
they have, skilled mice with a lathe & CNC machine. Its 2.9kg lighter than the stock flywheel (5.6kg, original is 8.5kg)

[Sider]

they have, skilled mice with a lathe & CNC machine. Its 2.9kg lighter than the stock flywheel (5.6kg, original is 8.5kg)

That's a great saving with rotational mass :thumbsup:

[p fandango]

what if you mounted the adjuster on that grey box, underneath the handbrake?
went & picked my unit today, its got a lot of wires lol. The adjuster did fit nicely where you recommended sir

http://i791.photobucket.com/albums/yy196/pedro-fandango/Volvo/mine/BT/Misc/07112011188.jpg

[Jonnie]

Hi Duane,

That looks ideal! :thumbsup: Let us know when you've finished the install. If you encounter any issues, while fitting or setting up the system, Please let us know.

Regards,
Jonnie

[p fandango]

Let us know when you've finished the install. If you encounter any issues, while fitting or setting up the system, Please let us know.
i will thank you sir, i must say the chap at Stealth racing where i bought it took it all out the box & gave me some good tips on the wiring. He even fired up his laptop & went thru the program with me

[p fandango]

hello, sorry its been so long but i've now started wiring up the traction control. I've mounted the ecu onto the transmission tunnel. Power & RPM i've took off the coil wiring just above it, earth is to a good point on the body, switching panel is wired so just the injectors & speed sensors to do. Injectors are no problem except for having to extend the wires, but the speed sensors have me baffled.

Because i've binned the ABS i'm going to run the extra long wires directly to the sensors, this means i've got to split the racelogic loom so 2 go thru the bulkhead to the front & the other 2 to the back. The problem is what do i do with the shielding, do i simply cut it & bin it so i can split the wires? or is the shielding meant to be put to an earth because i couldn't find anything in the manual about what to do with it.

Also i'm still not 100% on the actual wires on the sensors, the factory sensors which i'm using have 2 wires to each, neither of these are connected to anything, so do i just pick one wire & wire it to the racelogic leaving the other wire doing nothing?

very sorry for the questions Duane

http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/2042/11122011296.jpg

[Jonnie]

hello, sorry its been so long but i've now started wiring up the traction control. I've mounted the ecu onto the transmission tunnel. Power & RPM i've took off the coil wiring just above it, earth is to a good point on the body, switching panel is wired so just the injectors & speed sensors to do. Injectors are no problem except for having to extend the wires, but the speed sensors have me baffled.

Because i've binned the ABS i'm going to run the extra long wires directly to the sensors, this means i've got to split the racelogic loom so 2 go thru the bulkhead to the front & the other 2 to the back. The problem is what do i do with the shielding, do i simply cut it & bin it so i can split the wires? or is the shielding meant to be put to an earth because i couldn't find anything in the manual about what to do with it.

Also i'm still not 100% on the actual wires on the sensors, the factory sensors which i'm using have 2 wires to each, neither of these are connected to anything, so do i just pick one wire & wire it to the racelogic leaving the other wire doing nothing?

very sorry for the questions Duane

Hi Duane,

Don't worry about asking questions, that's what we're here for! :thumbsup:

You’re correct about the shielding. Make sure you connect this to a good, reliable ground point. Doing this should help against wheel speed signal noise.

With regards to your ABS sensors, I think the document linked below may help a little and there’s a wiring diagram on page 24. Maybe it’s best to test each wire with a multimeter or scope to make sure you're receiving a good signal when the wheel spins. The other wire may have to be grounded.

http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/service/850/AntiLockBrakeSystemAndTractionControl.pdf

Let us know if you encounter any further issues, or have any questions.

Regards,
Jonnie

[p fandango]

Hi Jonnie, thank you very much for the reply sir. I've literally just got off the phone to your technical support & spoke to a very helpful chap called Mick or Micheal (apologise i'm terrible with names) & cleared everything up. Hopefully having the racelogic ecu so close to the coils won't create any problems with noise. Now just need enough light to get out & carry on

thank you very much for all the help both on here & on the phone, Duane

[Mike Broadbent]

Hi Jonnie, thank you very much for the reply sir. I've literally just got off the phone to your technical support & spoke to a very helpful chap called Mick or Micheal (apologise i'm terrible with names) & cleared everything up. Hopefully having the racelogic ecu so close to the coils won't create any problems with noise. Now just need enough light to get out & carry on

thank you very much for all the help both on here & on the phone, Duane
That would be me :)

[p fandango]

That would be me :)
very sorry i still got your name wrong, no offence intended sir. Thank you very much for the help, time to play & see what happens lol :Drive: